First Sign of Summer

18 06 2007

Yesterday Chris and I went for our first swim in the ocean sans wetsuit. It was chilly at first but it felt so good to finally ring in the summer. However, I’ve realized that I’m a real wimp.

I don’t know what happened. I used to love going to the Atlantic with my Mom when I was little and jumping the waves. Now though, even the smallest waves stir up fear in me. It doesn’t matter if I’m on my boogie board or just body surfing, the sight of a wave cresting before it gets to me terrifies me. I’ll duck down as low and I can go and just hope I don’t get pulled away. Then, when I stand up I put my arm out in front of my as a “Stop, don’t let anymore come” sign to the waves. I do this because it takes me a few seconds to wipe the water from my eyes so that I don’t lose my contact. Chris thinks it’s hilarious. I’m like the wave police.

I can’t figure out what changed from my young fearless self to now. There was a time when I was about 15 that my Mom and I went out later in the evening when it was already dark to play in the waves. Everything was fine until out of nowhere they were 20 feet tall and consistent. Maybe that day scared me. I can remember thinking that even though my Mom was right there she couldn’t help me if she was being pulled across the ocean floor too.

Maybe that’s what scared me, who knows? But I do know that I look like a real wimp when I’m standing there in 2 feet of water quaking over a little white cap when the 5 year old on the surf board is paddling in to the wave.




2 responses

18 06 2007

I’ve only been to the gulf and it was gorgeous, but I didn’t go out past my waist…to scary!

19 06 2007

I’m going to Puerto Rico in October for a 5 day surfing intensive.

Please keep in mind that I have never surfed in my life.

I am ballsy yet afraid. I’m OK with that.

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